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I Love Paris in the...Wintertime, Part II
by Brian Sands
NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA

Strolling through the streets of Paris during the holiday season summons memories of Fellini films though with a Gallic accent. A countertenor sings amidst the columns of the Palais Royal. Carousels pop up in seemingly unexpected places, like in front of the Bourse, Paris' Stock Exchange, to give a splash of swirling color.

New this year was a large skating rink in the plaza of the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). Like the crowd at Rockefeller Center, some folks evinced Olympic aspirations, while others tottered, happy not to fall down. As parents helped their children take their first steps on the ice, what song could be heard coming over the loudspeakers? "Jingle Bells," perhaps? Try "Sex Machine."

In the last issue, some of Paris' cultural offerings were explored. This time we get down to the nitty-gritty-shopping, eating and partying in Paris' very big gay scene.

Note: When socializing, of course it helps to be fluent in French. But for just about everything else, a little familiarity with the language (like what you can pick up from a "Teach Yourself French" book) will go a long way. And all that stuff about Parisians being snobbish and rude is just a bunch of horse patooty. I have always found them to be among the nicest, friendliest, most helpful people in the world.

Shop Til You Drop

Either by law or by tradition, French stores have sales only in January and July, making a wintertime visit to Paris even more appealing. If you're thinking of scooping up all the latest haute couture for just a few francs, however, forget it. A salesperson told me that, in part because of the tax structure, even on sale most designer items cost less in New York than in Paris.

Still, it's fun to look. Promenade down avenue Montaigne (8th arrondissement) where Christian Dior, Chanel, Guy Laroche, Nina Ricci, Ungaro and Thierry Mugler have their salons. Window shop or go in and experience salesmanship refined to the nth degree. On rue du Faubourg Saint Honore (8th) you'll find Christian Lacroix, Lanvin, and Hermes at #24 since 1837. Even if you don't buy anything, you might get an inspiration for your next Southern Decadence outfit.

One store worth visiting for very nice, very reasonably priced traditional men's clothing is Costardo (69, rue de Richelieu, 2nd). Four years ago I purchased two pairs of pants there. This time a suit I bought early one afternoon was ready, alterations done, by early evening. The tax rebate I got made it an even sweeter deal.

To see an early stage in the evolution of the mall visit one of the passages couverts or galeries. Found in the main section of the right bank, these covered arcades date back to the 1820s-40s and contain boutiques and cafes. Galerie Vivienne and the adjoining Galerie Colbert (4-6 rue des Petits Champs, 2nd) are especially nice ones; Colbert features exhibits organized by the National Library. Passage des Panoramas (11, blvd. Montmartre, 2nd) was the first to be inaugurated in 1800.

Moving over to Le Marais, you should have no trouble finding everything your gay heart desires. Clothing stores abound (surprise!) led by Boy'z Bazaar with two locations (5 and 38, rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th). Design shops seem to appear on every corner as well. DOM, also on rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, carries chic kitchenware and houseware items. Headquartered in Germany, DOM of course offers rainbow motifed items though theirs display a refreshing panache.

Two of my favorite finds were a small used clothing boutique (again on rue Ste. Croix de la Bret. near rue Vieille du Temple)-lots of fun things perfect for clubbing. And at Chocolats Mussy (8, rue du Bourg-Tibourg), though I got only two small pieces of chocolate, the young lady there treated me as though I had gotten ten pounds worth, wrapping them lovingly and as lagniappe giving me a little 1998 calendar. Needless to say, everything in the shop looked mouth-wateringly good.

Paris truly does have something for everyone, from the flower and bird markets on Ile de la Cite and the weekend flea markets in the northern part of the city to the elegant Palais Royal salon of Shiseido, whose perfumes go for $100 a drop, and the magnificent crystal chandeliers and other baubles at Baccarat's showroom and adjacent museum (30, bis rue du Paradis, 10th). Visa, MasterCard or American Express?

Eat Til You're Beat

With shopping done, it's time to turn your attention to that second favorite activity (okay, maybe third), eating. You can feast your way through Paris the way visitors to New Orleans do; it'll just take longer. After reading guidebooks, magazines, and listening to friends' or even strangers' advice, you might still be overwhelmed by the all the possibilities. Here are a few more recommendations to add to the culinary confusion.

You needn't go too far beyond Le Marais to find any number of fine dining establishments. Many are gay-owned and operated, and all are certain to be gay-friendly.

Looking through the large windows of Le Gai Moulin (4, rue Saint Merri, a continuation of rue Ste. Croix de la Bret., 4th) you see its gleaming white walls ... and its tables filled with good-looking men. Owner-manager Chris is delightfully friendly and instills that in his clientele. Don't be surprised if the folks you sit next to start chatting with you; if you're by yourself, Chris will find a place for you and make introductions all around.

With years of experience working on a Caribbean cruise ship, Chris speaks English fluently and will happily translate the prix-fixe menu for you. I had a delicious duck pate, veal paupiette with mushroom sauce and a crispy chocolate cake (ballotine de canard aux raisins, paupiette de veau sur sauce morilles and croustillant au chocolat-doesn't it sound even better in French?), a steal at 100 francs (approx. $16.50). There is also a very nice wine selection. When I returned on Monday, a group of us led by Chris stayed late telling jokes in French and English. Clearly the place to be.

Last spring, Rip and Marsha enjoyed Au Tibourg (29, rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4th) and so did I. Frederic hosts with charm at this restaurant decorated in rustic style and located across the street from where a synagogue once stood. I had a divine shredded rabbit pate flavored with Armagnac and a salmon encrusted with herbs and spices. I only wish I had had room for dessert.

Outside of Le Marais, a friend took me to Le Bois Rouge (14, rue de la Fidelite, 10th) and I'm glad he did. Modelled after owner Elizabeth's country home, this is a lovely restaurant in a neighborhood more noted for ethnic cuisines. An appetizer of fine duck pate, homemade foie gras duck liver, chicken livers, smoked duck filets and salad with nuts was almost a meal in itself. Filet of duck with cooked pears, potatoes and garnished with mandarin orange sections followed by a chocolate mousse made for my final fabulous meal in Paris.

Friends had taken me to Les Pietons (8, rue des Lombards, 4th) a tapas bar, which I would have preferred more if we had been in Madrid than Paris. Still, if you want a quick bite and a change from French cuisine in a fun, campy setting, this is the place. Flamenco Barbie dolls adorn the walls which sport almost as much tinsel as a Mardi Gras float. Calamari dishes are the highlights here, both fried and in a brown sauce.

While McDonald's, Burger King and the rest are now nearly ubiquitous in Paris, to me French fast food is a hot quiche or spinach pie that can be gotten at any of the numerous boulangeries that dot the city. Rue Montorgueil near les Halles and Boulevard de Strasbourg have some especially good offerings. Food in hand, you can continue to tour the city while satisfying all of your senses.

Or get some pate and a baguette, find a park bench and, voila, an excellent repast. Follow this with a trip to a patisserie and a few points of a finger will complete the perfect French meal.

One caveat: Avoid Batifol, a chain of restaurants. The food was mediocre and overpriced, the service was terrible. My French friends were appalled.

Gai all the Way

While gay Parisians have recently been bitching that London is home to all the action these days, if you can't have a grand time in Paris then just go home and become the couch potato you were meant to be.

Otherwise, start by checking into the Hotel Central Marais (33, rue Vieille du Temple) in the epicenter of Paris' version of Chelsea, the Castro and the French Quarter combined. The rooms are very comfortable and attractively priced at 400 francs for a single. Although bathrooms and showers are in the small hallway, they are kept immaculately clean and are shared by only two rooms. Thomas is the very helpful, English-speaking front desk man. For what it's worth, a pigeon decided to build her nest in one of my window boxes and had deposited two eggs by the time I departed.

Not only does Hotel Central have a bar on its ground floor but exit it and go in any direction to find more bars. I liked the Open Cafe (17, rue des Archives, 4th) which, as its name implies, avoids the too close quarters of other bars. A center bar allows you to cruise the whole place or, if like me you find cute men who may not speak your language intimidating, you can just stand back and take it all in like a foreign film without subtitles.

Also, as popular now as during my first visit to Paris six years ago., is Quetzal (10, rue de la Verrerie, 4th) where I was accompanied by a couple and their friend whom I met at Le Gai Moulin. They were friends with manager Rick who treated us to a round of drinks. Classy guy, classy place.

As in most large cities there is a gay clubbing schedule to follow. Sundays begin at La Loca situated in the historic Moulin Rouge building. Tea dance starts at 5pm on both the larger techno dance floor and the smaller subterranean one where abandoned train tracks and an old locomotive engine are part of the decor. Here house music reigns and continues past llpm even after the upstairs closes at 9pm to make way for a straight disco. Tee shirts, jeans and lots of cute boys abound. Sixty francs gets you in and one drink, although one Sunday when I got there around l0pm they waived the entrance charge.

Leave La Loca, have something to eat and about lam head to Les Bains (7, rue du Bourg l'Abbe, 3rd) for Cafe con leche where heavy beat techno music will take you into the wee hours. Club kidz mingle with guys in regular duds; no one style predominates. Entrance fee is 100 francs but passes can be found at most gay boutiques. With drinks costing 50 francs though, you may want to get there for the 11:30pm til lam happy hour.

Monday night, is reserved for Queen (102, ave. des Champs Elysees, 8th) one of Paris' premier venues. Don't think about getting there before midnight; when I got there about 2am everything seemed to be just kicking in. Classic '70s and '80s music prevails. During the holiday season white Christmas trees hung from the ceiling and four snazzy black guys did routines changing from drag to club kidz to Las Vegas-y gold lame outfits. If there's a line, it's well worth the wait. It's also kinda fun to see straight groups being turned away at the door.

Banana Cafe (13, rue de la Ferronnerie, lst) and le Bar next to it at #5 are two smaller dance clubs/bars near les Halles that keep going and going. And if you're looking for leather n' levi places, or "cruising bars" as Exes' indispensable Paris gay map terms them, try l'Arene, QG or Mic Man, all in Le Marais. Or if you're on the Left Bank, check out le Trap (10, rue Jacob, 6th). It can be a bit difficult to find but when during my first Parisian stay I was looking for it late at night and a policeman helped point it out to me, I knew I would be returning to this wonderful city. And I have. And I will again. Enjoy!

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